Eilidh Duffy is an editor, writer and PhD researcher whose primary interest centres on the afterlives of clothing and their use within modes of dissent, particularly when garments are repurposed or worn in ways not originally intended. Her work is often concerned with how we can understand our socio-political climate through representations of the body, and has appeared in style and culture titles across the UK, US and Europe. She works as a researcher on both commercial and editorial research projects, and formerly held the position of Senior Writer at i-D, all while editing the blog, Bog (bog100.substack.com) which shares stories and research about clothing cultures and the culture of clothes.

Her PhD research investigates the consumption of clothing designed for warfare outside the state military, often referred to as ‘military surplus’ or ‘army surplus’. The so-called ‘golden age’ of surplus emerged in the West after the Second World War (1939–1945), and ended in the 1990s with the advent of online shopping, sharing a concomitant timeline to that of the Cold War (1947–1991). During this period, textiles produced for warfare both by the British government and other nation states were gradually released into the consumer market in the UK through various supply lines. By interrogating how and why the British state produced surplus clothing and textiles, why it allowed its import and export, and how this form of military waste was circulated, adopted and reimagined by the general population, this research investigates a broad shift in the production and diffusion of army dress as a political object.